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    Showing posts with label Dhaka. Show all posts
    Showing posts with label Dhaka. Show all posts

    Tuesday, February 2, 2010

    Shimulia, Savar, Janaury 2010

    An Earthen Experience

    30 January 2010
    Shimulia, Savar,
    Dhaka,Bangladesh

    Its always difficult to manage a team of more than 20 people during a tour somewhere. But when you have Shudipto with you, you know that things will be OK. It was yet another nice photowalk with the great group of adventurers from TTL (Through the Lens: Bangladesh). A tour with TTL anywhere is a great experience. Not just for clicking purpose, to have some great moments with some great friends too! I could hardly say no when the plan was unleashed to visit Shimulia. This was TTL's second visit there actually. I missed the earlier one and had an empty feeling ever since. I was determined this time not to miss this event!

    Winter was standing on the door, on its way out. But just a little of that chilly breeze remained and convinced some of us to take a wee bit of warmth with us. Anyway, my idea was that as we would start early in the morning, it was wiser to take a sweater; well, just in case! As it turned out, we boarded the bus for Savar by around 8:40AM, when the sun was well up; though not shining with that much ferocity (lucky me!!).

    We knew that the journey would take around one hour. Our destination was Shimulia, some way from Dhamrai. So, it wasn't a straight journey to any bus stand. We got dropped at Dhamrai after a one-and-a-quarter-hour journey. That only introduced us to a small tempo (three-wheeler human hauler) stand. These three-wheelers carry around 10-12 people. Our 22-people group was enough for two vehicles. This part of the journey took us through some nice rural settings. Most of the land near Dhaka lost their rural flavour some time back. A bit of rural touch still remains with the crop lands. It was harvesting time; and most of the homes were in a festive mood with rice processing. I started to miss that while we left those golden fields. Our aim was to visit a potter village; so, the harvesting fields took a back seat. We had to be satisfied with the lovely views.

    After around half-an-hour's journey, we reached a school. An annual sports event was well on its way there with a lot of students, teachers, and guests gathering. With all our clownish bags and photo-gears, we were easily spotted by them from a distance. Anyway, we could swallow that and we did around half-a-dozen songs of terrible taste, which were on air through some mindless broadcasts with mikes! Races were not yet ready to start when we crossed the tracks.

    At the end of the school field there was that huge banyan tree. Its ancient and experienced look would make anyone stall. We also got stuck in front of it. Had to take a few snaps there before we could move again. The tree is at the entrance of the potter village, almost reminding us of our glorious past.

    From Shimulia, Savar, Dhaka, January 2010

    roots.........
    Nature teaches us not to forget our past; never to unlearn our learning; never to get detached from our roots....... because we're just children in a very large world; always learning.........


    We entered the village and straightaway knew that the villagers were very much used to seeing photographers. This village is one of those where one could find some traditional stuff. Being one of the last remaining potters, they do attract a lot of photojournalists. Their attitude towards cameras was built by these photojournalists. Anyway, we were not facing too much of a problem shooting in and around the village. We go pretty much easy access to their homes. We made our aims clear and got full co-operation from them. We stayed at the village for more than two hours and didn't face any trouble clicking.

    From Shimulia, Savar, Dhaka, January 2010

    tradition......
    every bend in that village reminded us of the traditions that survived changes of many generations....... yet, there are signs of change; signs of threat to that long-protected culture........


    From Shimulia, Savar, Dhaka, January 2010

    craftsmen........
    these people are not just potters........ they're experts of a craft; protectors of a tradition; curators of an almost forgotten art......


    From Shimulia, Savar, Dhaka, January 2010

    patterns of earth.......01
    there are patterns of God's earth...... and there are patterns made by humans..... they both come from earth and ultimately end up there...... we humans are just the breaks in those patterns.......


    From Shimulia, Savar, Dhaka, January 2010

    patterns of earth.......02


    From Shimulia, Savar, Dhaka, January 2010

    a work of faith.......
    the potters of Shimulia have kept the traditions alive with a lot of devotion...... and faith...... its almost as if their faith in their God guided their faith in their work....


    From Shimulia, Savar, Dhaka, January 2010

    Gods......
    they're not just potters...... they're makers of Gods as well...... their work is not just for material benefits; spiritual as well.....


    From Shimulia, Savar, Dhaka, January 2010

    an artist's hands.......
    those hands have considerable experience and expertise in creating useful shapes..... but its not just expertise, its the attention to detail and concentration in creating something artistic that shines on the mud around the fingers......


    From Shimulia, Savar, Dhaka, January 2010

    where time stood still........
    I spent some time at a place where I could see her, but asked myself why is she sitting there?....... I came to that same place after more than an hour...... she was still there..... she didn't move from there....... what was her story?....... what makes time stand still around her?.......


    From Shimulia, Savar, Dhaka, January 2010

    light of the future.......
    the baby was basking in that beautiful morning sun..... her forefathers may be in a sort of gloom, thinking of the inevitable....... but she provides them with a hope that makes them smile and keeps them going.....


    Our stay at the village ended some time around 1:00PM and we began to search ways to go back quickly. As it turned out, going back quickly became something of a challenge. Those three-wheelers made our life difficult by keeping their own timeline. A couple of replacement vehicles saved the day for us. We reached Savar bus stand on those two vehicles; much quicker than we thought we could. It was almost 2:40PM when we were boarding the bus for Dhaka. But the rest of the journey was even quieter. A day's toil made everyone quiet. We entered Dhaka by around 3:30PM and found our own ways to reach home.

    It was a short but interesting tour. My previous disappointment regarding not being able to attend the previous photowalk there was no longer there. And the pleasant company of the photomates made the short tour really enjoyable.

    Tuesday, December 29, 2009

    Ashura Processions, Dhaka, December 2009

    The Holy Ashura Processions

    08 January 2009
    Dhaka, Bangladesh

    Its been 11 days short of one year; Ashura processions are back! It was 08 January of this year that thousands came out on the streets celebrating holy Ashura. That time I went to the main procession of the city, starting from the old part of Dhaka. The year before I was at Mohammadpur, where the processions usually carry a completely different mood. So, during the last couple of years, I was able to observe the diversity of celebrations. It really is worth exploring this variety.

    With this thought in mind, I planned to be at Mohammadpur this year. This is usually one of the two most important processions of the day. The effort put in by the participants into these processions has to be noted. From the design of Tazia to designing costumes, to the practice of performances, their devotion to the cause is something to see.

    Usually it starts in the late afternoon. The usual starting places are the Bihari camps of Mohammadpur. Being very near these starting places, I was looking to go out late, to be with the crowd for a couple of hour or so, and ultimately to come back with some experience to remember. I went out with my camera right after 4:00PM (Daylight Saving). I was there on the streets around Mohammadpur and Mirpur Road until around 7:00PM, when the procession came to Tajmahal Road and got split in different sections. It was dark when I finally separated from the crowd.

    Here are some of the glimpses from the event.

    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Heir.......01


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Flags.......


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Mobile camera......


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    The Procession.....01


    Johuri Mahalla in Mohammadpur is most favourite in terms of attractiveness during the Tajia processions. The confined spaces of the area makes the procession vibrant and colourful. The Tajia seems at home in this place. The moment the procession moves to larger roads, it becomes a bit unnatural; something like an export! At Johuri Mahalla, the large concentration of Biharis makes it so special. This really looks like their own procession there!


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Startled.......01


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Startled.......02


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    The Procession.....02


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Startled.......03


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    The noisiest bed.....


    This year round, I was really surprised to see the small size of the Mohammadpur procession. And when I say small, I mean really small. I haven't seen such a small procession before. It was almost as if there are lesser number of people participating!! I've tried to find the reason behind it, but haven't found any authenticated sources. One source told me that it might because of lack of finding resulting from political changes. Well, its difficult to guess though.



    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Heart of the Tazia.......01


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Heart of the Tazia.......02


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Heart of the Tazia.......03


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Running repairs.......


    Apart from the difference in size of the procession and number of Tajia, there weren't too many things that have changed during the last couple of years. Have seen some innovative ways of designing Tajia. One of the main Tajias originating from Johuri Mahalla had a miniature 3D map of the then Karbala under it. And as usual, the Tajias were designed by people who were more driven by emotions, rather than practicality. The Tajias got tangled with wires at many places on the road due to their height. At one point, the main Tajia had to lose it top spires to make any process!!



    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    The collections department......


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Children power.....01


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Private video.....


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Animated faces.......


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Drums.....


    This time, the procession moved to Mirpur Road, a move that I haven't seen before. Usually the procession moves through Mohammadpur alone and doesn't spill out in Mirpur Road. Anyway, it seems that they got permission for that this year. But the procession was so small that they could hardly dominate the road!! Once they reached Asad Avenue and combined with the other procession, the overall crowd size became a bit bigger. But still, the size remained pretty small.



    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Children power.....02


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Children power.....03


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    The holy horse......01


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    The holy horse......02


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Heir.......02


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Children power.....04


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Spectators.......


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Startled.......04


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    The leader......


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    "Say cheese!!"


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    A fashion statement......


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Heated personality......

    This year's small prcession was full of frame-throwing stunts!! These stunts are usually there all the time. But this year seemed like a particularly big concentration of these people. These young chaps were taking a lotta risks to display their valour! And in doing so, putting themselves as well as others in grave danger of personaly injury. And in fact, we've witnessed one of the performers getting burns over his upper body after one of his friends failed to control the flame!!

    Sunday, August 30, 2009

    Chawk Bazar "Iftar-walk", August 2009

    29 August 2009

    TTL did it again. Thanks again to Shudipto for organising this, and also thanks to so many participants for making this a success.

    Tt was such a warm day; and should I mention the massive traffic on the road? Yet, many of us did manage to reach Chawak Bazar in time to catch the busiest hours. The gathering place was at BUET (Bangladesh University of Engineering and Technology); not too far from the old part of the city. Our aim was Chawk Bazar, the place known for its Iftar Market during the month of Ramadan. Iftar is what conclusion of day-long fasting ritual.

    Iftar is a religious thing. But Iftar market? And Chawk Bazar? Its more like a tradition than anything else. The name of this Iftar market is known to most. Known because of its traditional items; items that make this market unique. Top of the list is the item called "Boro Baper Polay Khay" or literally translated "Eaten by Big Daddy's Son". However weird the name sounds, it is the top-most attraction of this market.

    I spent around an hour on the street, while others spent a bit more or less time depending on arrival. Reuters photographer Andrew Biraj was also there; though he wasn't really part of our mostly amateur group.

    The Iftar market is on a small piece of road clearing among the densely populated areas of Old Dhaka; adjacent to the southern boundary of Central Jail. Even though this is a small piece land, its important is always prime; and its regularly under the media coverage. We saw cameras and reporters from Ekushey TV there when we were about to return.

    It was a nice short photowalk there; covering one of the cultural pieces of Ramadan. We bought some items from the market and left for BUET campus once again. We had a pretty grand Iftar there together. It wasn't just a hunt for photos. It was a warm day and most of us were fasting. Being able to meet a lot of friends, and to share some light moments was worth the effort.


    Here are some of the moments captured during the "Iftar-walk".

    From Chawk Bazar Iftar Market, Dhaka, August 2009

    Transactions........01
    Hygiene has always been an issue here..... monetary transactions take priority over cleanliness!!


    From Chawk Bazar Iftar Market, Dhaka, August 2009

    Transactions........02


    From Chawk Bazar Iftar Market, Dhaka, August 2009

    Transactions........03


    From Chawk Bazar Iftar Market, Dhaka, August 2009

    The calling.......01
    Whats in a market without some hustle-bustle?..... the old man at the helm of the main attraction "Boro Baper Polay Khay" tries his best to make enough noise...... he has to make sure that his' is the central attraction of the market.....


    From Chawk Bazar Iftar Market, Dhaka, August 2009

    The display..........
    Displays play a big role in the overall marketing...... making the items look succulent is a constant effort......


    From Chawk Bazar Iftar Market, Dhaka, August 2009

    The grab..........01
    Iftar is never complete without the inclusion of dates...... this mainly Middle-eastern fruit has been traditionally associated with Islamic food, especially Iftar


    From Chawk Bazar Iftar Market, Dhaka, August 2009

    The grab..........02
    Sweets were in high demand.......


    From Chawk Bazar Iftar Market, Dhaka, August 2009

    The scales.........
    Keeping to the promise of right measurement has always been under debate...... this issue had appeared in a lot of verses to motivate Muslims to be fair.....


    From Chawk Bazar Iftar Market, Dhaka, August 2009

    The calling.......02
    "Shuti Kabab" is another traditional item being one of the centre-pieces of the Iftar market.........


    From Chawk Bazar Iftar Market, Dhaka, August 2009

    The grab..........03
    Of the sweets that are sold locally, perhaps the most popular is "Jilapi"..... Old Dhaka boasts with some of the most unique "Jilapi" items, including the really big ones on display here........