BP Photowalk: Panamnagar, Sonargaon, January 2009

Panamnagar: The Bricks are Changing
BP Photowalk to Panamnagar, Sonargaon
Narayanganj, Bangladesh

30 January 2009

It was planned from some days back. Thanks to Monir for the plan. He selected the venue and called everyone. Bangladeshi Photographers (BP) group of Flickr hasn’t done many photowalks of late. And this one was one of those few. The outing was more of an “adda” than a photographic venture. Being able to meet the friends was more important that clicking. Yet, once someone goes out with a camera, its hard to keep quiet. And an historic site like Sonargaon doesn’t let anyone keep quiet.

It was actually not the easiest to get a lot of people out there. The journey had to start pretty early in the morning, which wasn’t everyone’s breakfast on a weekend. But some did manage to show up; only six of us. We started from the bus stop near Gulistan. Even though our scheduled start was 8:00AM, we couldn’t make it before 8:30AM. Our target was to get there before the chaos started. It was a Friday, a holiday. And holidays are the worst time to visit such places. So many souls gather there on those days that it becomes virtually impossible to find the slightest bit of solitary spot. Early arrival over there gives us the chance to leave the crowd behind.

We knew it’s a short journey from Dhaka to Sonargaon. But you can never be fully certain about the condition of traffic; even on a holiday. Our journey took us right through the traffic-jam infested Sayedabad area and that quagmire made sure that we couldn’t reach Sonargaon before 9:35AM. Straightaway we went for Panamnagar or Panam City as they call it, and finished our breakfast at a local restaurant. By around 10:15AM, we started to move slowly into the realms of Panam.

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Panamnagar......... trying to catch up with time?



This was my fourth visit there inside three years. Every time I went there, I observed change. And recording the change became more important to me each time. The “renovation” that’s going on over there is being doubted by many. Although those works can make the buildings last longer, they definitely wouldn’t make the buildings regain their earlier beauty. The old buildings no longer spread the aura as they used to several years back. It was living history back then, but now it’s a bland museum. A eviction process was on the way the last time I visited the place. Most buildings were empty by that time. Now, the buildings are still empty, yet, some of the buildings seemed occupied. The eviction process started the renovation work all right, but the work itself somehow failed to impress me.

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Disturbing peace of the past.......

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Designs of humans and Nature........01

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Designs of humans and Nature........02

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Designs of humans and Nature........03

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Textures of a bygone era.........01

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Glimpses from the past..........

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Living in history.............01

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Nature catches up..........

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Don't forget the light that brings you here..... for this is your beacon
(Model: Shudipto)

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Textures of a bygone era.........02

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Textures of a bygone era.........03

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Let light come in, and don't you ever close the door..........
(Model: Shudipto)

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Living in history.............02

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Textures of a bygone era.........04


We veered off from the main street of Panam and proceeded north towards the solitary buildings that attracted me most during my previous tours there. We were shocked giving our first glance at the open field. There was an old Hindu Moth there on a big field. The north end of the field had paddy fields. Now there’s some stupid real estate people erecting a big structure, ruining the whole beauty of the place. We crossed the “real estate” land and moved into the solitary building complex. This complex is always my prime target. I can’t get tired of this building. A family still lives there. Sunlight was shearing through the thick curtain of tree-leaves. It took us to the past. The textures are simply amazing, though ruinous. We clicked away to our heart’s content. The building complex is in terrible shape; on the verge of ruination. Its not going to be long before this becomes history on photographs only. Sonargaon is also very good place for birdwatching. I saw or heard quite a few brids there. I've noticed this during my previous visits there.

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Nature does it better.......

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Living in history.............03

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Eating away.........

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Designs of humans and Nature........04

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Let there be light...........01

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Let there be light...........02

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Let there be light...........03
(Model: Shudipto)

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Let there be light...........04
(Model: Shudipto)



We moved on. Monir led us to yet another building complex. It probably was a former treasury. This complex was a shadow of its past; hardly had anything there. Two small structures were struggling to survive against Nature's game of time. A couple of open wondows there were letting in the sun. I just thought if there were some smog there, it could produce mind-blowing sun-rays. I shared it with Shudipto. And as active as he is, he started working with a definite purpose straightaway! Without a second thought, we found Shudipto fully ready with all the ingredients. There was fire! And there was smoke! And thats what we wanted, wasn't it? Sun-rays sneaked through and the clickers got crazy! The smoke didn't last that long, but this time, Monir took over and he wanted even more fire! There was fire again and we clicked smoke. It was great fun and the results were not short of being truly amazing!

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Fishing...........01

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Fishing...........02

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Hope...........

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

"I swear, I don't know where my pants gone!!"


We explored the local area a little bit. We watched a little fishing in a local pond and spent some time with village children. I always find the smiles on their faces amazing. They give me hope to think. This is one of the reasons why I never give up trying; I just know there is light.

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Disturbed peace..........01

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Doors.........

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Artworks..........

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Never forget your past.........
(Model: Mehdi Hasan)

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

The sky had always been there..........

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Disturbed peace..........02

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Disturbed peace..........03

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Heritage in danger........



This is when Mustafiz Bhai and Vashkar Bhai showed up. They came in a separate car and were stuck in a long queue of traffic jam near Narayanganj. But they arrived at least, although a bit tired physically and mentally. We were invited by them over phone to yet another building complex. The complex actually read "factory" outside the main gate. I have absolutely no idea how this "factory" sprung up at a place of historical significance. Anyway, we moved into this building complex, which I remembered from my visit in late 2007. A very beutiful building with lovely designs. The two-storied building was not in the worst shape; and some kind of "renovation" seemed like touched it. At least, the idea came up seeing the sealed-off stairs. Previously we were able to take pictures from the 1st floor; this time we had to be content with shooting from below. We explored the small place as much as we could and took some group photos. Then it was time to move on once again.

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

A veiled attempt at renovation............

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Off-limit.........01

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

This is a building that has many memories..........

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Panamnagar..... probably trying too hard to catch up......

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Broken.........

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Designs...... hard and soft.....

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

A protest........

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Off-limit.........02

From Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Living in history.............04


We proceeded through the even-familiar street of Panam. Most of the buildings were now off limit. Some had their windows and doors sealed off. Others had some artificial repairings done to them as a part of the "renovation" effort. We paused at a small tea stall to take some rest and then moved out.

I actually hurt my leg a bit during the return rickshaw journey to Sonargaon bazar. This painted my tour a bit, but couldn't wipe off the joy of a nice revisit to Panam. Mustafiz Bhai gave me a lift in his car because of my injury. It was a bit painful for several days, but I recovered in due time; ready to make yet another journey. I hope to visit Panamnagar again sometime late in 2009 or in 2010. Observing and recording the changes there are fascinating subjects for me.

P.S. This blog contains only some of the images from the tour. For more pictures, please visit the following link:
Panamnagar, Sonargaon, Narayanganj, January 2009

Please also check out my other visits to Sonargaon and Panamnagar:
Panamnagar, November 2006
Sonargaon & Panamnagar, December 2007