04-05 August 2006
It was too early when I reached Kulaura Railway Junction. Dawn had some way to go. So I waited; waited until it cleared up a little. I started to move around the station and when finally it was clear enough, I brought out my camera.
Dawn at Kulaura Junction........ 5:19AM
the structures of the rail station provide the living place for some........... for them anything suffices.......... even an open space under the covered foot-overbridge..........
I took my breakfast at a nearby restaurant; watched them open their shop actually. Wasted some time in the nearby areas just to make sure that I wasn't too early for Madhobkunda Eco Park. My aim was to reach Madhobkunda by 9:00AM. So, I was already travelling by 8:00AM. I reserved a three-wheeler taxi for the whole return journey. I didn't want to take any chances with the availability of vehicles at the Park.
On my way to Madhobkunda.........
A Part of the great Hakaluki Haor wetlands......
Tea plantations just outside Madhobkunda Eco Park.........
I was at Madhobkunda by around 9:00AM. It rained quite recently;so, the roads were wet and sometimes muddy. But rain made the place even more beautiful. It was green all around. Nature was at her best. The flow of water by the road reminded of the waterfall nearby. The road actually went along the stream.
The picturesque road through Madhobkunda Eco Park.......
Nature was showing her colours that day..........
The stream at the Park.......
When I reached Madhobkunda Waterfall, I realised the advantage of reaching a place first. There was nobody there. There was me and nature; none in between. It was rainy season and the fall was at her best. The sound was loud, but cheerful. tiny water droplets covered my face and reminded of the difficulty of photography in this environment. But did I come here to keep my camera confined in my bag? What the heck? It was too grand a subject to ignore. The stones around the place were wet and slippery. I had to be careful. Still I managed to slip and got myself hurt a little, not too seriously though. I was able to treat myself, as I always carry some first aid with me while travelling.
The queen of Madhobkunda..........
There was a concrete tower almost beside the fall. I presume it was there to help people watch the fall from a little bit of height. I wanted to go up that tower. But all my efforts went down the drain. I simply couldn't find the key with anyone there. Somehow the tower has been a show, and nothing more. Anyway, I went to the small restaurant that the park authorities maintain. There was a narrow concrete stair that went up beside the restaurant. When I inquired, they told me that this stair goes right to the top of the hill and the height is good enough to allow a view of Sylhet City, some 50km away. I got interested. I began to climb. But after a while, I realised that it was not possible to achieve this with all my baggage. And the stairs also got a little scary actually. It was almost like going up through a horror movie setting! I decided to come back. Talked to the people at the restaurant once more. They gave me assurance that this hill is climbed by typical tourists everyday. They gave me strength and recommended a climb, even though it may be a little tiring. I gathered strength once again. After having some refreshments, I left my baggage at the restaurant, took a bit of refreshment and my two cameras with me.
The way up........
Steps down from the heavens........
It was a long walk. I paused at every possible place. But it wasn't ending. My cameras became burdens. They were cutting my neck off! My feet were hardly moving. Then I discovered that a couple of young men, tourists actually, were coming down quickly. They mentioned that they got scared and couldn't climb to the top. I got curious. Why on earth would they get scared? If they were afraid of height, they shouldn't have climbed it in the first place. Actually this was the end of the concrete stairs. I had climbed almost 450 steps. I was tired. Now its the turn of the muddy steps. The restaurant people told me that the last few steps are not paved, but its worth going up. I looked around and found that there was no way I could take a panoramic pic from that place. There were too many trees around. And the trees were so dense that I could hardly see how high that place was.
The second waterfall of Madhobkunda, seen from the top........
A view from the top........ great wetlands of Sylhet can be seen in the distance....
Anyway, I began to climb again. It was muddy. And it rained last night. So, it was soft. The height of the muddy stairs began to go up. Now I was literally climbing! And now I started to realise why those two guys said they got scared. Because that scare gripped me too! I stopped; I stopped right in the middle of the stairs. Turned back and found out how high that place was. I could see the second waterfall of Madhobkunda that is not visible from all angles. I could see the great wetlands far away. Even though I couldn't get a panoramic shot, my heart allowed my cameras no more than this much. I took some shots from this place and began to go down slowly. It was around 10:15AM. The stairs were not just scary, they got risky after last night's rain. One slip and people could find me at the bottom of the hill!! My climbing at Madhobkunda was finished.
On the way from Kulaura to Sylhet........ a journey by train
By around 10:45AM I was on the move once again; going towards Kulaura. I reached there in about an hour. I began look for the alternatives available to me to reach Sylhet. Sylhet is around 50km from Kulaura. The best option seemed available to me at that moment, was the railway. The train to Sylhet leaves Kulaura at 12:30PM. So, I jumped in and began to enjoy the nice views that Sylhet always has to offer.
Reaching Sylhet I found a goodish hotel and took some rest. I planned to go to Sylhet Eco Park near the airport in the afternoon. I went there in 1997. That memory waived at me once more.
Sylhet Eco Park is a nice place to spend your afternoon. Not too far from Sylhet City, which adds some advantage to the place. During the previous visit there I saw the airport from hill top. I could see airplanes flying from the airport. But this time around, I found the hill-tops completely covered with trees. The trees were so dense that I could hardly find a place from where I could take a picture of the surrounding place. There was a nice little amusement park for children set up at the bottom of the hills. But I decided to stay on top as long as I was there. I saw the sun going down; going down pretty quickly, in fact. I stayed there almost up to 6:45PM. Then it was time to call it a day.
I had quite a hectic day. Had a night journey by train and started the day before dawn. Went up the hill and came to Sylhet by train. And then went out in the afternoon once more. I needed rest. I had big plans for the next day. I had to be strong to make the tour a success.
rain over tea gardens, on the way to the north-eastern border region of Jaflong.....
rain-soaked roads on the way to the north-eastern border region of Jaflong......
children running.........
stone crushers on the way to Jaflong.......
The next day, 05 August, I started early. It was raining from the start actually. But I decided not to change my plan. Jaflong is a beautiful place by the Indian border. I went there only once before. But that was way back. The memories needed to be refreshed. I just can't let weather dictate terms here. I boarded a small human hauler and began my journey. It rained for a large part of my journey. But just like Madhobkunda Eco park, the picturesque road to Jaflong was a beauty. While we neared Jaflong, we could see the distant hills of Indian state of Meghalaya. There were quite a few stone crushing plants by the road. Stones were quarried from the Jaflong River and brought here for processing.
Those mist-covered mountains........
The beautiful Jaflong River........
Gravels of the Jaflong River..........
Boats in the Jaflong River.........
Rain clearing up over the hills..........
Right over there is the Indian border........
Waterfalls along the Meghalaya hills......
Indian settlements on the Meghalaya hills......
I reached Jaflong during a drizzle. It was almost noon. At least, it wasn't too much rain! I held my umbrella up, but I also brought out my camera. How could I miss those beautiful clouds hanging over the hills? They reminded me of the song from Dire Straits: "Those most covered mountains are a home now for me.........." It was an amazing sight. The Jaflong River flowed under these rain clouds with the half-blind hills on guard. Winter months never produce sights like these. One has to come here during the rainy season to enjoy the beauty of rain.
I quietly continued with my photography until around 1:00PM. I had a bus to catch at Sylhet for Dhaka. So, had to leave the place. These amazing hills didn't want me to go. But sadly enough, I had to leave; may be until another time.
Those mist covered mountains......
Are a home now for me........
But my home is the low lands.......
And it always will be....... (Brothers in Arms: Dire Straits)
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