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    Tuesday, December 29, 2009

    Ashura Processions, Dhaka, December 2009

    The Holy Ashura Processions

    08 January 2009
    Dhaka, Bangladesh

    Its been 11 days short of one year; Ashura processions are back! It was 08 January of this year that thousands came out on the streets celebrating holy Ashura. That time I went to the main procession of the city, starting from the old part of Dhaka. The year before I was at Mohammadpur, where the processions usually carry a completely different mood. So, during the last couple of years, I was able to observe the diversity of celebrations. It really is worth exploring this variety.

    With this thought in mind, I planned to be at Mohammadpur this year. This is usually one of the two most important processions of the day. The effort put in by the participants into these processions has to be noted. From the design of Tazia to designing costumes, to the practice of performances, their devotion to the cause is something to see.

    Usually it starts in the late afternoon. The usual starting places are the Bihari camps of Mohammadpur. Being very near these starting places, I was looking to go out late, to be with the crowd for a couple of hour or so, and ultimately to come back with some experience to remember. I went out with my camera right after 4:00PM (Daylight Saving). I was there on the streets around Mohammadpur and Mirpur Road until around 7:00PM, when the procession came to Tajmahal Road and got split in different sections. It was dark when I finally separated from the crowd.

    Here are some of the glimpses from the event.

    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Heir.......01


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Flags.......


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Mobile camera......


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    The Procession.....01


    Johuri Mahalla in Mohammadpur is most favourite in terms of attractiveness during the Tajia processions. The confined spaces of the area makes the procession vibrant and colourful. The Tajia seems at home in this place. The moment the procession moves to larger roads, it becomes a bit unnatural; something like an export! At Johuri Mahalla, the large concentration of Biharis makes it so special. This really looks like their own procession there!


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Startled.......01


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Startled.......02


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    The Procession.....02


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Startled.......03


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    The noisiest bed.....


    This year round, I was really surprised to see the small size of the Mohammadpur procession. And when I say small, I mean really small. I haven't seen such a small procession before. It was almost as if there are lesser number of people participating!! I've tried to find the reason behind it, but haven't found any authenticated sources. One source told me that it might because of lack of finding resulting from political changes. Well, its difficult to guess though.



    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Heart of the Tazia.......01


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Heart of the Tazia.......02


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Heart of the Tazia.......03


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Running repairs.......


    Apart from the difference in size of the procession and number of Tajia, there weren't too many things that have changed during the last couple of years. Have seen some innovative ways of designing Tajia. One of the main Tajias originating from Johuri Mahalla had a miniature 3D map of the then Karbala under it. And as usual, the Tajias were designed by people who were more driven by emotions, rather than practicality. The Tajias got tangled with wires at many places on the road due to their height. At one point, the main Tajia had to lose it top spires to make any process!!



    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    The collections department......


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Children power.....01


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Private video.....


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Animated faces.......


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Drums.....


    This time, the procession moved to Mirpur Road, a move that I haven't seen before. Usually the procession moves through Mohammadpur alone and doesn't spill out in Mirpur Road. Anyway, it seems that they got permission for that this year. But the procession was so small that they could hardly dominate the road!! Once they reached Asad Avenue and combined with the other procession, the overall crowd size became a bit bigger. But still, the size remained pretty small.



    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Children power.....02


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Children power.....03


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    The holy horse......01


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    The holy horse......02


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Heir.......02


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Children power.....04


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Spectators.......


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Startled.......04


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    The leader......


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    "Say cheese!!"


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    A fashion statement......


    From Ashura Celebrations, Mohammadpur, Dhaka, December 2009

    Heated personality......

    This year's small prcession was full of frame-throwing stunts!! These stunts are usually there all the time. But this year seemed like a particularly big concentration of these people. These young chaps were taking a lotta risks to display their valour! And in doing so, putting themselves as well as others in grave danger of personaly injury. And in fact, we've witnessed one of the performers getting burns over his upper body after one of his friends failed to control the flame!!
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